MotoGP 20: German Grand Prix Setup - guide, suspension, settings, & more

MotoGP 20 came out in April and is one of the most challenging motorsport games out there. If you're undecided as to whether you want to buy the game, you can read our review.

There's also a beginner's guide with all the tips and tricks you need to get off on the right foot. If you're new to the MotoGP series or motorcycle games in general, this is the ideal guide for you.

If you feel prepared to race the likes of Marquez and Rossi though, we have what you need to be fast.

Setups are crucial to being fast in motorsport, especially when you're new to the two-wheeled categories.

The Sachsenring is one of the most challenging circuits on the MotoGP calendar. This track hosts the German GP and has done so since it replaced the Nurburgring in 1998.

Here's the setup you need to be rapid around the Sachsenring in MotoGP 20!

Tyres

The Sachsenring has a smooth surface and its kerbs aren't harsh. This allows you to be more adventurous with your choice of tyres for the race.

HE WHO DARES WINS: You can be aggressive with your choice of tyres here

You could opt for a soft on the front axle, but this will likely mean you need to conserve in the closing stages.

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We recommend using the mediums on the front and rear axles. This will allow you to push all the way through the race without losing front bite in the tight first sector corners.

Suspension

The Sachsenring rewards faster cornering over straight line speed. Your suspension setup should reflect this, as even the pit straight isn't a lengthy one.

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The preload values for both the front and rear have to be turned up to 10 to allow the bike to lean as much as possible through the first sector.

RIDING HIGH: You need a high setup to make it around the bends

Your fork values need to also be the high, with 10 compression and 7 rebound. This makes the springs have less damping and therefore more responsive in the corners.

Shock absorbers should be on the higher side too, with a rebound value of 5 and 8 compression. The kerbs aren't harsh at all here and should generally be avoided due to the big gravel traps.

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The springs need to near the middle of the road when it comes to their hardness. The harsh damping should compensate and let you get away with softer springs. We opted for 4 on the front and 8 on the rear.

Steering Adjustment

Your suspension is set up to avoid understeer and the steering adjustment needs to be along the same lines to be fast in the tight corners.

ON THE EDGE: You'll have to go extreme to be quick at the Sachsenring

The steering head inclination and trail need to be all the way down at 0. The downside of these settings though is that the bike could become unstable.

Turn these values up if that's the case, even if it does make the first sector more arduous.

Gear Ratio

Your gear ratios need to be set almost entirely to the default values for the Sachsenring.

LOW TOP SPEED, FAST ACCELERATION: Top end limits aren't your problem here

First gear is the only one that needs to be different, turn that up to as high as possible to aid low speed acceleration. You could turn these ratios down though, especially top and sixth gear to aid acceleration.

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Brake System

This circuit doesn't have many big stops due to its low top speed. Therefore, your braking system shouldn't deviate from the defaults of 340mm and 220mm.

THE STANDARD: You don't have to change your brakes for this circuit

If you go for bigger brakes, you add weight to the bike. Smaller brakes will lengthen your braking zones and leave you vulnerable to attack.

ECU

The Sachsenring doesn't have many big traction zones. However, many of its corner exits are off camber or on a decline, so the traction control needs to be turned up to 3.

The engine braking needs to be turned up to the max of 4 though, as you'll need to lose speed through the kinks of Turns 13 and 14 to avoid using the brakes much.

ON THE SAFE SIDE: To avoid a crash, you'll have to tame your beast of a bike

Anti-wheelie aid can go down to 3 but no lower as the front axle loves to raise up.

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Power should be up to 2 for the straights in the race and qualifying. All of the ECU settings can be adjusted on track and during the race so feel free to alter these as your race progresses.